Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
